Flamingfurnace.com, Aluminum Plaque

This is a special aluminum casting to celebrate my new flamingfurnace.com Domain.
At this stage I'm building my first CNC router machine and it will probably take me sometime to finish it. I found a cheap and easy solution to make my plaque pattern. I used 8mm MDF routing it all around. As for the letters, I got childrens sticky foam letters in a local supermarket (very cheap). After marking the pencil lines for the letters all that was needed was to stick them into place. As past experience tought me MDF is not the best material for a pattern so this time I gave it a few coats of clear varnish and that did the trick.
After the pattern was ready I constructed a new flask from some scrap timber. Flasks dimentions: W.600mm H.170mm and the depth is only 80mm (40mm cope 40mm drag) because the pattern is only 12mm in thickness.
I started making the sand mould and I was hoping that the gaps I left between the letters and the overall thickness of the letters would be sufficient enough to prevent the sand from sticking between the gaps when lifting the pattern out of the sand.
I don't know if I mentioned this before, but if the sand is being rammed too hard it will stick to the pattern when lifting the cope part.
If the sand is rammed to lightly the mould might break and the casting appearance will be damaged.
The trick is to find the right ramming strength balance.
Sometimes a bit of trial and error is needed ;-) .

In this casting I didn't use a gating system for the sprue and riser. I only used the sprue and riser feeder extension (pressure head) to prevent aluminum shrinkage. The aluminum feeders really work, I made two identical test castings of aluminum eagles. For the first one I used a sprue riser extension and the other without. The eagle casting without the feeder had shrinkage in a few spots. The eagle casting with the sprue and riser feeder was perfect.
In the images you can see three aluminum spikes on the back of the plaque, those are the locations of the venting holes to allow gases out preventing casting defects.

The plaque turned out very well without any shrinkage or major defects. Plaque size: 495x75x12mm. All the extra aluminum was casted back into ingots. I used again my new buffing wheel with the brown buffing compound. In the image of the cut sprue and riser you can see they did their job by "feeding" the aluminum casting.
It's a bit hard to see in the images the shiny finish of the letters but I can see my reflection in them.

I took this image after painting the aluminum plaque with copper paint.

Small Aluminum Skull Sand Casting

In this post I will explain how I sand casted an aluminum skull. This is one of my favourite aluminum objects that I've I casted, it turned out very well. I had this small cast skull on the shelf for the last 30 years I don't even know its origin. I decided to make an aluminum duplicate using it as a pattern. It took me three time to make the cope part but again it was worth it in the end. I also got myself a new buffing wheel and a brown polishing buffing compound (500g soap wax bar) for this project.
I also experimented by using only one sprue without a riser and it turned out very well.
After cutting the sprue I started with the polish proccess. First I used some sand paper and metal wool coarse and fine grades and after that I used my new buffing wheel with the brown polish compound. It didn't take long until I saw a nice shine glowing from the skull. After more polishing I could see my reflection on the skull and I am happy with that at the moment. Here are a few more images of the aluminum skull nice and shiny. I use it now as my paper weight and pen holder.

Aluminum lizard sand casting

In this sand casting project I used one sprue and two risers making sure the mould cavity would be full with molten aluminum and enough aluminum to "feed"the casting without having any shrinkage.

Making a mould with a pattern that is flat on one side is very easy and it didn't take too long to prepare.

In the image you can see that the risers did their part by feeding the mould and preventing casting defects.
The finished Aluminum lizard------>
This is my II aluminum lizard casting I made on July 2011:

Aluminum eagle sand casting

This week I sand casted an aluminum eagle. The eagle pattern is relatively flat so it's an easy and quick job to make the sand mould. I got more scrap aluminum from a baby pram frame and some un-used aluminum crutches. After stripping all the plastic parts and braking the aluminum so it will fit into my crucible I got plenty of molten aluminum alloy to keep me going for a few more projects.

After making the mould I started to melt the aluminum alloy. The melting process was very quick, most of the aluminum parts were thin and they are no match for the high tempature of the foundry. Only two scoops of
dross needed to be skimmed off, so I got plenty of molten aluminum.

Here are a few images of the aluminum eagle after the aluminum cooled down and I opened the flask.

Nothing goes to waste all the extra aluminum is turned into ingots.
Sprue and Riser are cut off for another casting cycle.

The aluminum eagle turned out very well and I am thinking of making a few more :-)

This is another addition to this post my "flock"of aluminum eagles is getting bigger. I made 3 in 1 flask. Next I started to tap screws on the back of them to secure them to the wall.

This casting I made using only one riser and one sprue for two aluminum eagles.